Wednesday, December 12, 2012

Chacala

It’s Sunday morning and I prepare breakfast to the beat of the Mariachi band already on the beach and the screams of kids playing in the surf. It isn’t long before the oompah band with its tuba, horns and drums sets up for the day at the other end of the beach. It’s crowded by noon and vendors start popping up; fruit vendors with coconuts and pineapples who will whack them up right there and give you a straw to quench your thirst, ice cream carts, a table full of oysters waiting to be shucked.
 
 
 

“Thank you for coming”, the friendly Port Captain greeted us when wechecked in.Little did we know that he embodied the warmth and friendliness of this small village that would make it hard for us to weigh anchor and move on. 

 

We have been anchored here for 15 days in 25 feet of water that is 80 degrees. We are 200 yards off of the beautiful sand beach, designated as one of Mexico’s “clean beaches”, and it is pristine. Humpback whales come to these waters from December to March to give birth to their young. This is also a turtle sanctuary where young turtles are released on the beach. There is a hot spring nearby and it’s a birders paradise. Over 170 species of birds have been spotted in the village trees. The village is surrounded by low, fertile hills planted in rows of mango trees. We spend our days rowing the dinghy ashore to buy fish, meat, and vegetables at the local tiendas; enjoying homemade ice cream from a shop owner who is also an illustrator giving me drawing lessons when he isn’t scooping up his delicious treat; swimming; kayaking; snorkeling and wandering the smooth, round rock cobblestone streets discovering all the nooks and crannies of the place. And oh yes…enjoying cold cervezas under the beach palapas. 






 
Thanks to Jill, Regine and Maxine, the gracious teachers at the Learning Center, my stay in Chacala was enhanced richly.   I worked with a dozen delightful, energetic primary kids in the after school English program.  I also participated in an English test prep session for 16 high school students.  I was thrilled to spend time with such smart, polite students, some of whom are sponsored by Cambiando Vidas, a local non-profit that provides scholarships (www.CambiandoVidasMexico.org). 

A trip to the sprawling open-air market in La Pinita yielded a feast for the senses as it overflows with Mexican artwork, handmade textiles, food, ceramics, all imaginable hardware items, and clothing. 

One morning, we climbed into a dilapidated local taxi van, the seats sporting large gashes through which most of the foam had escaped.  The doors were tied on with rope and the instrument panel was a gaping hole where instruments had once lived.  I think that it may have been a hurricane remnant and the guy’s only livelihood so he managed to keep it running.  Despite all appearances, he was a good driver and navigated us safely down the potholed roads to neighboring Los Varos where Ken bought two pairs of glasses, having lost his second pair in a bad beach landing in the dingy.  We explored the town and returned unscathed in a spotless taxi van.  Before boarding, the driver asked us to wait a few minutes so that he could mop it out.  This van was complete with enclosed seats, instrument panels and seat belts. The luck of the draw.  

Now, for the return trip to pick up Ken’s glasses and wander through the market in Los Varos!

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