We slip into Bahia Tortugas under a full moon at 0330. Anchor lights gently rocking in the bay look
like fireflies against the dark hills.
This small, dusty fishing town is awake at dawn. The economic impact of our 145-boat fleet is significant. Men and boys in pangas roam about the bay
collecting garbage, delivering diesel ($3.80/gal) and serving as water taxis to
the town dock which is in dire need of repair and takes astute navigation
skills to avoid the gaping holes and missing boards.
We celebrate the completion of the 360-mile first leg with a
beach party, a baseball game with local kids and dinner at Veracruz, one of two
cafes in town. They are expecting us and have stocked up with a simple and
flavorful Ha-Ha menu of tacos and burritos and plenty of cold beer and icy
drinks. There are two tiendas, little
one-room stores that had a few root vegetables, eggs, canned good, soaps, cold
drinks and other basics.
A walk through town on the unpaved streets reveals the orderly
lives of a community that takes pride in their surroundings. The small cinderblock homes boast bright
pastel interior walls and tidy kitchens. Patios are just feet from the street and
are swept clean in what must be a constant battle. Black water tanks mounted on
rooftops absorb the sun’s heat. A
coating of dust from passing cars softly settles on laundry hung out to
dry. Almost every house has satellite
TV. Everyone with whom we came in
contact was pleasant and friendly.
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