Thursday, August 2, 2012

The Trapper's Cabin, Princess Louisa Inlet


It’s a 1,750 foot nearly vertical climb to The Trapper’s Cabin, or what’s left of it. 

For the most part, the trail consists of ascending a mountainside following orange ribbons tied to stumps and branches. It was with relief that every so often we would come across something of a plateau giving our muscles a much needed break from the tortuous climb.  With our hearts pounding and our breathing labored we would find ourselves in a quasi-meadow scene of dappled sunlight in the midst of this dense forest of vibrant colors issuing from the reds of the rotting cedars and the brilliant green of new, young foliage, and we would rest a few minutes in the deafening silence of our breathing.  There was no wind in the trees. No birds.  Not a creature.  Not a sound.

 We crossed streams in which we tantalized our fingers and splashed our faces and necks with the clear, cool water.  Just when we thought we were at the tree line, just when we thought that we could go no further, we heard the roar of the falls, felt the cool, moist air and saw the remains of the cabin.  We ate our lunch sitting on the hand-hewn log walls, wondering how the mattress frames and the piece of fabric that remained had been delivered, how the trapper had shaved the logs to make the floor and reflected on his life in such an isolated place. 

We walked down a path of meadow greens and onto a plateau of slippery boulders, wetted by  curtains of mist as the falls tumbled and roared down the mountain.  It was a clear day and the view to Malibu Rapids at the entrance to Princess Louisa Inlet was extraordinary.  A bird’s eye view of the inlet is humbling to say the least. 

The hike down was cooler, but harder on the knees.  The trail looked entirely different, more colorful, greener, more dense, the perspective broader.  Our hike took five hours and was worth every minute of it.  To cool off, a quick dip off of the stern ladder of our boat into the fresh glacier water sealed the deal.  It was an extraordinary day.      

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