Genoa Bay, Vancouver Island

9/10/2007: We sailed into Genoa Bay, on Vancouver Island, at 1600 on a sunny afternoon and dropped anchor in 18 feet of water over a mud and sand bottom. There were only three other boats anchored in this charming harbor. It was a lazy end-of-summer kind of day and my co-captain decided to soak up the last of summer in the cockpit. I was intrigued by the houseboats, boat houses, and art gallery. I rowed in to check the place out. We had stumbled upon a true gem.

The art gallery, located in one of the houseboats displays fine arts crafted by local artisans. Paintings, weavings, jewelry and works of clay are displayed in a peaceful setting that truly becomes them. This time of year, mid-September, there were just enough boats tied up at the small marina to make the place seem inhabited but not overused. The gangplank deposited guests at the door of the Genoa Bay Cafe. I wandered in around 5:30 pm, too early for dinner and too late for lunch. I asked the server, who turned out to be the warm and welcoming assistant manager, Gord Rumley, if he had any local wines. When I travel, I support the communities I visit by purchasing locally made products whenever I can. He seated me on the patio at the water's edge. I had the deck to myself as I cooled off with a glass of chilled white wine, inhaling the beauty and serenity of the cove. The deciduous trees were beginning to change color, the calm water reflecting their brilliance. Gord brought a menu, just in case I should want to stay for dinner. I explained that my co-captain was probably asleep in the cockpit, and if I wanted to enjoy dinner ashore, I would have to row out, fetch him, clean up, and row back. Undeterred, he was telling me of the evening's specials when a menu appeared hot off the press. It changes daily depending on local availability. All he had to do was recite the leg of lamb with plum chutney, prime rib, and apple-studded pork loin and we were booked for 7:30. I sipped the last of my wine just as a group of six canoeists alighted from their vessel. Gord explained that they had rowed over from a B & B in Cowichan Bay. I smiled thinking that I must be in for a wonderful treat considering the effort it took for them to get there.


Climbing the ladder into our cockpit, I announced to my co-captain that he had ten minutes to make himself publicly presentable. He rowed us back to the cafe, we were seated on the deck and began a meal that was unforgettable not only for the restaurant's natural ambiance but the lovely presentation of a fresh and flavorful meal. We ordered local wines, the prime rib and the pork loin. For dessert we indulged ourselves with a chocolate port that was to die for. We complimented the chef on his performance, wondering how such a small place in an out-of-the-way cove could keep him. I learned that he's the proprietor/chef, Jonathan Aucamp. With such an inimitable meal, I should have known. Paying the $70 bill wasn't the least bit painful. I still had ten days left of our cruise through the Canadian Gulf Islands to throw together the simple pasta dish that I had planned for the evening. Honestly, this is a haven not to be missed!